KATHMANDU: (Oct 28) Nepali climber Lakpa Sherpa, popularly known as Makalu Lakpa, has set a rare mountaineering record by summiting Carstensz Pyramid (4,884m) — the highest peak in Oceania — four times within just nine days, according to 14 Peaks Expedition.
Lakpa first reached the summit on October 19 at around 7:00 a.m. local time, completing the fourth peak of his Seven Summits goal. Over the following week, he guided several international climbers to the top — including Nepali singer Raju Lama and Cristel Vanessa Estol Garay, who became the first Uruguayan to summit Carstensz Pyramid.
He completed additional ascents on October 22, 24, and 27, with his final climb reaching the top at 6:00 a.m. local time — a record-setting fourth successful summit in nine days for a Nepali mountain guide.
Carstensz Pyramid, also known as Puncak Jaya, lies in Indonesia’s Papua province and is considered one of the most technically challenging climbs among the Seven Summits due to its vertical rock faces and unpredictable tropical weather.
The expedition also saw international milestones: Ariunzul Chuluunbaatar of Mongolia completed her Seven Summits and Explorers Grand Slam, while Alfa Karina Valle Arrue became the first Salvadoran to reach the peak.
Lakpa’s achievement adds another chapter to his decorated career. In 2022, he earned a Guinness World Record for summiting Mt. Makalu three times within 16 days. By 2025, he had already climbed Makalu eight times, cementing his nickname, Makalu Lakpa.
This latest climb marks his fourth of the Seven Summits, following successful ascents of Mt. Everest (Asia), Mt. Kilimanjaro (Africa), and Mt. Elbrus (Europe). His upcoming targets include Mt. Aconcagua (South America), Mt. Denali (North America), and Mt. Vinson (Antarctica).
Originally from Walung village in Sankhuwasabha, Lakpa began his mountaineering journey at age 15, working as a porter for a French expedition to Makalu Base Camp. His first major climb came in 2010, when he summited Mt. Manaslu after being noticed for his hard work on Annapurna a year earlier.
Since then, Lakpa has guided numerous successful high-altitude expeditions and emerged as one of Nepal’s most respected and record-holding mountain guides.
