Ho tujhse milna purani Dilli mein
Chhod aaye nishani Dilli mein
Pal nimara dari be’talab
Teri meri kahaani Dilli mein…

[Meeting you in Old Delhi.
Leaving behind memories in Delhi.
Moments passed by unexpectedly.
Our story lives on in Delhi…]

These lines, often found in reels and shorts on social media, perfectly capture the magic of Purani Dilli i.e Old Delhi. For many, these memories are closely tied to food, which has carried along the history and traditions. The very smell transcends boundaries of cultural amalgamation that represent old Delhi, a melting point of traditions which asdimilated and reflect through biryani, the crunch of a chaat, or the sweet syrup of hot jalebis. Beyond the gratification of taste bud, old Delhi  food is bouquet of history, tradition, and culture rolled into every bite.

As you walk through these lanes, you’re not just surrounded by sights and sounds but also the strong smell of roasting spices. This smell isn’t just in the background and tells stories of kings, poets, and visitors who ate and lived here.

Like the “kaali kamli wale” (refer to the Prophet Muhammad) show kindness and warmth, the food of Purani Dilli also welcomes you. Whether you’re hungry or not, you get drawn in by a vendor’s smile, the steam from hot nihari, the sound of kebabs grilling, or the pleasure of a fresh, hot paratha.

Beneath the warm glow of street lamps and the lively sound of evening markets, a quiet worry grows. The timeless flavours of Purani Dilli are slowly fading. Many shops that have stood for hundreds of years are now struggling with problems that no amount of spices or cooking can easily solve. One day, the sound of clinking plates might stop, and the smells that once defined the city could fade away in the rush of modern life.

Eating Old Delhi’s food is like tasting history itself. Losing it would mean closing a chapter of a living story, a heritage that belongs not just to the people of Delhi, but to the whole world.

The Story Behind Old Delhi’s Food

If you want to understand why Old Delhi’s food is so special, you have to travel back in time. The streets, the hawkers, and even the recipes themselves have stories stretching back hundreds of years.

Delhi – known in ancient times as Indraprastha grew into a grand city under the rule of many different kings and empires like Rajputs, Sultans, Mughals, the British. Each one brought their own ideas, tastes, and cooking skills. But it was the Mughal emperors who made food here truly world-famous. They came from Central Asia, bringing along Persian cooks and new flavours. Imagine gigantic royal kitchens, with rows of chefs cooking large pots of aromatic gravies and roasting juicy meats on open flames. Over time, these grand meals became the food of the city, loved by people from all walks of life.

In Shah Jahan’s time (the same emperor who built the Taj Mahal), Old Delhi, then called Shahjahanabad, became a center of power, poetry, and most of all- Food. The recipes from the royal kitchens slowly made their way out to the streets. Today, these flavours live in the air, seep into the brick and dust, and find new life in every paratha and glass of lassi served on the roadside.

Food Streets of Old Delhi

Just a walk through Old Delhi can feel like a feast for the senses. The lanes are narrow, crowded, and alive with the sounds of vendors calling out their specialties. Spices fill the air, and anywhere you turn, there’s something new to taste.

Paranthe Wali Gali

Hidden within the Chandni Chowk maze, Paranthe Wali Gali (“the bylane of flatbreads”) is a narrow street that has become a pilgrimage spot for food lovers. Its present name arose in the late 19th century as paratha (stuffed flatbread) shops began to populate the alley previously known for silverware and sari sellers. By 1911, “Chota Dariba” was simply called “Paranthe Wali Gali,” reflecting its new culinary identity.

Many original shops are still run by the same families, some now in their sixth generation like Pt Gaya Prasad Shiv Charan (est. 1872), Pt Kanhaiyalal Durgaprasad Dixit (est. 1875), and Pt Baburam Devi Dayal Paranthewale (est. 1886). The parathas here go far beyond basic recipes, there are fillings from potatoes and paneer (cheese) to nuts, lentils, bananas, and even sweet rabri. Celebrities, prime ministers, and countless visitors from India and abroad have squeezed onto benches here to enjoy food carefully prepared to time-honored traditions.

Chandni Chowk

If Paranthe Wali Gali is the heart, Chandni Chowk is the entire soul of Old Delhi’s food culture. It is Old Delhi’s most celebrated market, established in the 17th century by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan and designed by his daughter, Princess Jahanara. The name “Chandni Chowk” literally means “Moonlight Square.” It was inspired by a water pool built in the center, which shimmered in the moonlight, making the whole square shine like silver.

This dazzling effect and the nearby market’s role as a hub for silver trading, gave the area its celestial and silver-linked name. Once the grandest avenue for royal processions, today its narrow lanes buzz with rickshaws, shoppers, and food lovers from all over the world.

Chandni Chowk is home to legendary restaurants and sweet shops, some dating back generations. Moti Mahal introduced the world-famous butter chicken in the mid-20th century, while Karim’s, opened in 1913 by Haji Karimuddin, continues to serve Mughlai delicacies following recipes crafted for the Mughal courts.

This is also where the famous butter chicken was first made. Moti Mahal restaurant combined roasted chicken with a rich, buttery tomato gravy. It became so popular that now, you can order butter chicken in restaurants all over the world!

Nihari

If you pass by Jama Masjid just after dawn, you’ll see locals and travelers standing shoulder-to-shoulder outside a shop with a faded sign: Haji Shabrati Nihari Wale. Old uncle Mustafa, who eats here every Friday, says, “My father brought me here after prayers in 1962. He called it Delhi’s best breakfast. Now, I bring my grandchildren.”

Nihari is one of Old Delhi’s iconic dishes – a rich, spicy stew of slow-cooked meat flavored with unique spices. The name “nihari” comes from the Arabic word “nahar,” meaning morning, reflecting its original role as a filling breakfast after sunrise prayers. Nihari’s roots can be traced to the kitchens of Mughal India, where it was served to the nobility to sustain them through long days.

One story traces Delhi’s thicker nihari to workers constructing Shahjahanabad and the Red Fort, aiming to provide warming, high-energy food. Over time, the dish transformed from royal and worker fare alike into a beloved breakfast for families, workers, and visitors in Old Delhi, especially in the cold months. Today, celebrated shops near Jama Masjid, such as Karim’s, Al Jawahar, and Haji Shabrati Nihari Wale, still serve nihari based on time-honored recipes, blending tradition, technique, and secret spice mixes.

Jalebi Wala

No journey down Chandni Chowk is complete without stopping at the legendary Jalebi Wala. Founded in 1884 by Lala Nem Chand Jain, this tiny, open-fronted shop stands on the corner of Dariba Kalan Road, instantly recognizable by the crowd that gathers for its golden, syrup-soaked jalebis.

Generations of Delhiites and now travelers from all over the globe have enjoyed these crisp spirals, made only with desi ghee (clarified butter) using a secret recipe handed down for more than a hundred years. The jalebis here are thicker and juicier than elsewhere, fried slowly so each piece is perfectly cooked inside and out. Locals tell stories of parents bringing their children, of sharing jalebis on a festival morning, and how a taste from Jalebi Wala is a taste of Old Delhi’s sweetness and legacy.

Kuremal Mohan Lal Kulfi Wale

Not far from the chaos of the main bazaar lies another beloved address – Kuremal Mohan Lal Kulfi Wale. Founded in 1906, this shop has become world-famous for its inventive kulfis (Indian-style ice creams). What started with classic flavors like malai (cream) and kesar (saffron) soon turned into a celebration of innovation: today, you can eat real mango or orange kulfi where the fruit is scooped and filled with creamy, frozen kulfi mixture, chilled to icy perfection inside the fruit’s own skin.

Ask a regular and they’ll recall stories of braving the summer heat just for a bite, or grandparents sharing “first-ever” kulfi with their grandchildren. Kuremal’s still uses traditional recipes—no preservatives, no shortcuts. Marked by love and simplicity, their kulfis offer cool relief from Delhi’s sun and a delicious way to taste over a century of cold dessert history, one creamy spoonful at a time.

Snacks and Chaats

If sweets are Old Delhi’s heart, then snacks and chaats are its beating pulse. Wander the bustling lanes and you’ll find more than just meals – you’ll taste the very spirit of Indian street food.

• Aloo Tikki, Papdi Chaat & Dahi Bhalla: Beside every busy crossing, vendors set out mountains of golden aloo tikkis (crispy potato patties), crunchy papdi, and soft dahi bhallas (lentil dumplings in spiced yogurt), each doused with sweet-and-sour chutneys, yogurt, and a shower of tangy spices. Every bite is a burst of hot, cold, sweet, and spicy.

• Golgappa/Pani Puri: Known as “King of Indian Snacks,” these hollow, crisp spheres are filled and dipped into spicy-tangy water just before eating. Customers stand clustered around vendors, trying to keep up as each golgappa vanishes in seconds and often followed by laughter and calls for “just one more.”

• Samosas & Kachoris: Whether stuffed with spicy potatoes, peas, or lentils, these deep-fried treats are a staple snack for locals on the move and visitors craving a crunchy, satisfying bite.

Ask a regular like Raju, a rickshaw-wala whose favorite spot is Ashok Chaat Bhandar and you’ll hear tales of growing up in the twisty lanes, racing friends to see who could eat the most golgappas, or finding comfort in a spicy samosa on a rainy monsoon day.

Chaat stands are more than places to buy food; they’re social crossroads where strangers become friends and stories are shared over plates of flavor-packed snacks. Vendors take pride in their secret chutney mixes, family spice blends, and the artistry of assembling each chaat so every bite is perfectly balanced.

What Makes Old Delhi Food So Special?

1. History in Every Bite

Walking through Chandni Chowk, you might pass Karim’s, a small eatery tucked behind Jama Masjid, still run by the descendants of a chef who once worked in the Mughal emperor’s kitchen. Their mutton nihari recipe has been simmering for generations like the same spice mix, the same slow-cooking technique, unchanged for over a century. Or take Ghantewala Halwai, once famous for its Sohan Halwa, whose origins trace back to 1790. Eating here isn’t just a treat; it’s like taking a bite of history, where every flavour carries the memory of emperors, poets, and traders who once dined in these very streets.

2. Melting Pot of Flavours

Old Delhi’s food is a living museum of cultural exchange. The sheermal bread you find here is a Persian import, brought by traders and perfected in Indian kitchens. The spicy, tangy chhole bhature reflects Punjabi influence, while butter chicken at Moti Mahal tells the story of refugee chefs from Peshawar who made Delhi their home after Partition. Even sweet treats like Jalebi have roots in the Middle East, adapted over centuries with Indian ghee and sugar syrup. Every plate you taste here carries the signature of a different culture – Mughal richness, Persian sweetness, and Indian spice.

3. Skillful Cooking Techniques

Take the nihari again, in places like Haji Shabrati Nihari Wale, it cooks overnight, the meat so tender it falls apart at the touch of a spoon. The famous Paranthe Wali Gali isn’t just about stuffing dough with potatoes or paneer; each paratha is layered, rolled, and fried to golden perfection in desi ghee. The technique for a perfect jalebi at Old Famous Jalebi Wala involves pouring fermented batter into hot oil in delicate spirals, then dipping it into syrup without losing the crunch. These are not dishes you learn in a day – they’re the result of decades of practice, passed down like precious family heirlooms.

4. Community Connection

In Old Delhi, food is as much about people as it is about taste. During Ramzan, lanes near Jama Masjid transform into vibrant food bazaars where everyone – rich or poor – is welcome to share an iftar meal. At the langars in Gurudwaras like Sis Ganj Sahib, anyone can sit and eat freshly cooked dal, roti, and kheer, served by volunteers. Street vendors often hand out free snacks during festivals like Holi or Diwali, a tradition that turns food into a bridge between communities. Here, a plate of biryani isn’t just dinner – it’s an act of sharing, faith, and togetherness.

Old Delhi Foods: Benefits and Goodness

Old Delhi’s cuisine is often known for being rich, festive, and full of flavour – but beneath the layers of ghee and spices lies a surprisingly healthy foundation rooted in traditional cooking wisdom.

Spices like turmeric, cumin, and coriander are not just flavour enhancers; they are natural medicines. For example, turmeric, used in curries like dal fry at Kake Di Hatti, has anti-inflammatory properties. Cumin aids digestion, making heavy dishes like chole bhature from Sita Ram Diwan Chand easier on the stomach. Coriander cools the body and balances flavours in spicy gravies.

Old Delhi is famous for its rich dairy culture. Paneer tikka at Giani’s Di Hatti or fresh curd served alongside parathas in Paranthe Wali Gali are not just delicious, they’re packed with protein and calcium, supporting strong bones and muscles.

Staples like rajma chawal from Kanwarji’s or chole from Chawla’s provide plant-based protein, fiber, and essential minerals. These slow-cooked dishes keep you full for hours without relying on processed ingredients.

Refreshing yogurt-based drinks like lassi from Amritsari Lassi Wala or buttermilk at local dhabas help cool the body in Delhi’s heat and promote gut health by encouraging good bacteria in the digestive system.

Even in indulgent street snacks, fresh vegetables play a role, from the potato filling in aloo parathas to cucumber, onion, and tomato in chaat platters. These add vitamins and minerals, balancing out the richness.

Why Is Old Delhi Food in Danger?

Old Delhi’s food is more than just street snacks and Mughlai feasts – it’s a living, breathing heritage. But in recent years, this legacy has been under constant threat from rising costs, modern competition, strict regulations, and the devastating blow of the COVID-19 pandemic.

When the pandemic hit, the bustling lanes of Chandni Chowk and Jama Masjid – normally filled with the scent of kebabs, jalebis, and parathas – fell silent. Legendary vendors who had been serving for decades faced a reality they had never imagined. Ramesh Chand, famous for his chhole kulche near Delhi Gate, closed his stall and went back to his village after footfall dropped to zero. Dal Chand Kashyap, who had been selling chaat in Old Delhi for over 25 years, saw his income vanish overnight.

Icons like Kuremal Mohan Lal Kulfi Wale, known for their fruit-filled kulfi since 1906, saw sales plummet as festivals were canceled and tourist visits stopped. Even Jalebi Wala, the sweet shop that has survived since 1884 reported days when not a single jalebi was sold. The once-crowded Paranthe Wali Gali saw shuttered kitchens as family-run shops couldn’t meet rising ingredient costs and had no way to deliver online during lockdowns.

Some managed to adapt. Karim’s, the century-old Mughlai institution near Jama Masjid, introduced takeaway and delivery for the first time in its history. A few nimble vendors joined food delivery apps or used Instagram to showcase their cooking, just to remind people of the taste they were missing. But many smaller, lesser-known stalls – kebab sellers, tea shops, mithai vendors — never reopened, their recipes and stories disappearing with them.

Even beyond the pandemic, Old Delhi’s food faces daily challenges.

• Rising rents in historic areas like Chandni Chowk make it hard for family-run shops to survive.

• Licensing and eviction drives have forced many street hawkers to shut down.

• Changing tastes among younger customers, who are lured by fast-food chains and heavily marketed brands, have taken away some of the local crowd.

The tragedy is that with each closure, it’s not just a business that disappears, it’s a piece of Old Delhi’s culinary heritage. When a nihari seller shuts his shop, we lose not just a dish, but a recipe refined over generations; when a chaat vendor closes, we lose the unique blend of spice and flavor that set his plate apart.

And yet, the survivors fight on. Jalebi Wala still fries its jalebis in pure ghee. Karim’s still marinates kebabs in the same spice mix their founder used in 1913. Kuremal Mohan Lal still serves mango kulfi from hollowed-out mangoes, just as they did over a century ago. These are not just sellers, they are guardians of Old Delhi’s identity.

The Magic Continues…

But their survival is fragile. Without conscious support from locals, tourists, and policymakers, there’s a risk that one day, these living legends could become nothing more than memories, spoken of by older generations as something you “could only get in the Old Delhi of the past.”

Every step through Old Delhi feels like being inside a colourful festival. Someone calls out, “Try my special samosas!” While another shouts, “Taste this lassi – cold and sweet!” In one corner, a man in a white cap brews fragrant chai in large steel pots, pouring the steaming tea into tiny glasses as he chats with the customers. Hawkers laugh and share stories with regulars and with travellers from distant cities and countries.

There’s warmth here – a sense of community and togetherness that is felt in every smile and every shared meal. It does not matter if you are rich or poor, a local or a visitor. In Old Delhi, food brings everyone to the same level, making strangers into friends, if only for a few minutes over snacks or supper.

But the magic is not only in the food. It’s in the moments that stay with you: a shopkeeper giving you an extra piece of jalebi “for luck,” or a passing stranger guiding you to the best kebab shop because you look lost. It’s in listening to an old timer talk fondly about how, as a child, he would be sent by his mother to buy hot milk and bread after prayers, and those flavors are still alive today.

                              During the month of Ramadan, the lanes near Jama Masjid become even busier after sunset. Families gather to break their fast with dates, fruits, and steaming plates of seviyan or biryani. The air is thick with excitement, peace, and the shared joy of eating together. On Diwali or Holi, sweet shops overflow with boxes of mithai, and laughter echoes as celebrations begin.

Even as modern fast-food chains and cafes pop up in the city, those who love Old Delhi know that nothing can ever replace the taste of a paratha made fresh on the street, or a mug of rich, creamy kheer from a tiny shop with a wooden bench. These foods carry memories of festivals, family outings, late-night adventures after an exam, or stolen moments shared with a friend under the moonlight.

And although life in Old Delhi is not always easy for the vendors and cooks, who face struggles with money, space, and changing times, they keep going, holding tight to their recipes, their pride, and their promise to serve food bursting with flavor, history, and love.

The true magic, then, isn’t just in the bread or the butter chicken or the sweets. It’s in the spirit of Old Delhi, a place where history and hunger meet, where food is made with hands and shared with hearts, and where, with every meal, the story of the city goes on.

So, as long as someone in a narrow by lane tosses dough for a paratha, or stirs a pot of bubbling curry, or carves up a fresh mango to drop into a kulfi, the magic truly continues…

And you, whether you’re a visitor for an evening or a resident for a lifetime, become a part of Old Delhi’s story – one plate at a time.